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Is it confusing to contemplate the countless numbers of products at a cosmetics counter? Or be subjected to the endless adverts promising magical results from using "hope in a bottle" potions? There is often some truth in the claims, but the overwhelming numbers of products and ranges do not always have the active ingredients in high enough concentrations to make a change in the skin.
Here follows a basic guideline of what works and what doesn't...
What doesn't work is anything claiming to have collagen in it to "boost the collagen in the skin". The collagen molecule is simply to big to pass through the skin and remains on the surface, mereley providing excellent moisturising. Similarly products containing Hyaluronic-acid, provide excellent temporary hydration, but are not absorbed deep to where real changes can take place. Hyaluronic acid needs to be injected under the skin to effect real changes to the lines and collagen-production by the body. The next proven substance is Vitamin-C (or ascorbic acid) also an anti-oxidant, which reduces pigmentation and rejuvenates the skin. The problem with Vitamin-C is that it is rapidly oxidized and inactivated by exposure to air, so needs to be protected from exposure. There are many products (often very expensive) which claim to contain high concentrations of Vitamin-C, and indeed they do when you purchase them. Unfortunately, the Vitamin-C is lost in a matter of days to weeks from the jar or bottle as soon as you open the container. It is therefore important to make sure that the concentration of the product is high and that the container is air-tight and air cannot get into it as the product is dispensed. The Aspect range has a good quality Vitamin-C in an air-tight dispenser.
Another powerful anti-oxidant is Idebenone, which penetrates the skin more easily than some other substances & provides significant improvements in the skin over a matter of weeks
What does work (and is small enough to be absorbed through the skin) and is the most studied and proven substance available in topical cream or serum form, which reverses signs of ageing in skin and actually normalizes the cells in the skin and reverses some abnormalities (eg early pre-cancerous conditions) is an anti-oxidant known as Vitamin-A, Retinol or Retinyl Palmitate. The clinical results with this substance are impressive, but it has to be delivered in a high enough dose which can lead to a mild reaction (called a retinoid reaction), which is easily managed by temporarily reducing the dose. Because of the risk of this reaction however, most over-the-counter products have too-low doses to be effective. The results of regular use of a retinol-containing cream are significant, particularly on sun-damaged and older skin although it does take months for the results to become apparent, not days, and it is vital that sufficient concentration of the retinol is present in the product. At Clinic42, we stock several ranges including AspectDr and ResultsRx which we have chosen particularly for their high retinol content.
Although we can now harvest the patient's own growth-factors from their blood-plasma & re-inject them into the problem area (a new procedure easily performed at Clinic42), this involves injections and potential bruising which not everyone is keen to undergoThe latest and most exciting developement in skin treatments, not just for the face, but also for the neck, hands, decollete (and any other dry or aged area eg knees, elbows etc) are products containing peptides and growth-factors. These molecules stimulate the body to produce new collagen and elastin and improve the texture & tone of the skin.
Fortunately, the cosmetics companies have also developed ways of putting growth-factors and peptides into creams and serums which are able to penetrate the skin-barrier & also stimulate new collagen & elastin. Again one needs to make sure that the concentrations of the active ingredients are sufficient to achieve the desired results. At Clinic42 we are able to provide our patients with these products from the ResultsRx range as well as the Aspect Dr range.
Now is a great time to treat the skin to some real skin-care which goes below the surface, to give you significant and long-lasting improvement. At Clinic42 our professional staff are in a position to assess your skin's needs and prescibe accordingly.
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